Three church walk

 July 2nd evening- July 3rd Hora and Livadi

So I forgot to mention that the burgeoning pile of rubbish near where I walk to the church was at last being moved yesterday. It consisted of a toilet and other bathroom bits plus bags of rubble. As I went out yesterday,  the guy with his horses were coming up the path from the road. I imagine he will have shifted it all yesterday, but I wonder what his rates are? I bet he does not pay for it to be taken away with the other rubbish we all throw out. ( as it turned out, he left it by the side of the road and it was all taken away by a tipper truck on Sunday)

So I had what a lot of people will imagine as a traditional Greek dinner last night, salad plus meat on skewers, chips, tomatoes, red onions and a dip. I had it with a beer which came in a can. Before I drained the can, the wind whipped the can  up and it went careering down the steps. Here was my dinner.

It was pretty good and I felt like I deserved it. I was looking at the road, I went up yesterday  and the buildings I had passed. I was quite impressed how high up I went, and that wasn’t the full extent of my climbing at all. I then decided to go into the bar that I have been frequenting,. It was empty when I got in which gave me time to speak to Mariella the lady who has served me recently. Turns out it was her birthday and she was working! She is there until 3am if there are customers to serve. I sat inside with her. She is from Athens, and lives in the Lower Hora like me. A little while later a friend of hers came in, armed with a birthday present. Not long after the owner came in, I must admit I was sitting in the chair he normally sits in but he said it was ok. He is a balding Greek with long hair like Robert Plant. Very friendly, I must find his name! Another friend of Mariella’s turned up, again with a present too and by now there were lots of other people in including the guy who wears that grey cloak thing. I spotted a couple of people dropping off and picking up things by the bar doorstep, it’s clearly a place for food item swaps! I paid up and walked home. 

Just past the church, I bumped into a couple, they were clearly lost. They were Italians from Verona. They basically wanted to get to Upper Hora. I must admit I thought it would be easier to guide them to the road after which they would be fine, which I did. They were very grateful.

So in the morning, I decided to do what I am going to call the three church walk. I have been thinking that when I move here, I will do these walks again with some amendments and put on the Serifos Facebook group page I have created. The idea is the page will promote not just  the island from a point of view of encouraging more people onto it, but hopefully allow people to make more of their visit. I am not naive to believe that the former won’t happen, but it’s clear those who come here, love the place so much, they often come back. ( if anyone joins the group!)

So the walk started by walking down to Livadi, then going off down a different set of steps that you normally take. This takes you down into a different valley, with all sorts of vegetation, and wonderful views of overhanging rocks. Google Translate allows me to inform us that the church Xekourastra, means Rest House. 

The steps continued back to the main road and my next church was at the far end of an industrial estate off the main road again. This area is not pretty, the usual rubbish, messy areas of rubble, sand, bricks and the usual abandoned vehicles. There was a huge din of crickets and a dried up river bed, does water flow along it in the spring? High up above I could not see Hora, but the three windmills were just about visible. At the far end of the estate and beyond the church was a cement making factory.  This church is Saint Catherine. There was a horse in a field near it, and lots of pungent wild fennel,  which you get on these islands.

As I left the industrial estate, there was a lady picking leaves off a roadside plant.I asked her what it was, I could not translate, but she had said the word salad, there were leaves and olive shaped fruit on the stems. I said “efharisto”, she replied “parakelo”. The next church had a name I could read on the map. “TaxiArches”.  Before I walked there, I had a lunch break at my second favourite cafe and bakery on the island. Unfortunately I must have looked hungry because with my spanakopita I asked for a muffin. I have the words for “one” and “two” on my crib and when the baker said those two words, I must have made him think I wanted two. Luckily they weren’t that big!

 So the walk to the third church had me retrace my steps, the church straddles two roads and it wasn’t clear which one would have a path to it. I walked past Blue Bird car rentals and the owner recognised me and we had a chat. As I had not booked a car in advance, he could not help me, he suggested I try the guy in Hora, he said he was good. However although I could see the church from the road, there was no access path. I then tried the other road and although I could see the church, there was no path through the prickly undergrowth.

The church is on the right hand side of the photo in the middle of the frame. It’s not that attractive actually, so no loss in not getting to it. Good view of Hora though. Mindful of the bus timetable I tried to think about where to go next. I decided to climb up and then drop down through a road that twisted back and forth to the ill fated beach where I got myself sunburnt. As I went down I could see the camping area, they have this area covered to try and keep the sun if peoples tents. The area is also covered in trees. I saw a horse, I was amazed it was not troubled by flies. An area with lots of prickly undergrowth was plagued with trapped litter, napkins and general litter off a nearby taverna perhaps? Next was a big open enclosed area, barren of vegetation. The reason was clear. It had goats in it! I went to say hello, they were friendly, probably thought I had food, they had kids too, plus chickens and geese for company.

They did have areas to keep out of the sun and lots of water. I then had a nice view of “that” beach, hardly anyone on it and certainly no nakedness. 

I then caught the bus, after getting some shopping in for the next two nights, so I can use the remains of the pasta and spaghetti I have in. As I walked to the house I met two ladies manhandling the bits of a big chair, not easy in the wind. I had a quick chat with one of the ladies, they were from Athens, and loved the island so much they bought a house. I told them they might see me again! Let’s hope so.